Hamster Nutrition

You walk into your bed room, exhausted from work and school or what have you and you suddenly hear a rustle towards the corner of your room.  You smile, the all too familiar sound of hyper activity makes the entire day worthwhile.  The sun is setting quickly and a cast of cool low light has cascaded into your bedroom.  You turn your lamp on and suddenly you hear a scurry across the cage on your desk.  You walk quietly to the other side of your desk and seemingly hover over the cage lid and whisper, “I’m home” As your companion pokes their head out of their den to investigate their ears prop forward and their whiskers go wild.  How can you resist such a face?

We can’t help how cute our little friends are and we are usually convinced by the Pet Trade that the best way to show them you love them is by giving them a sugary delight sold in their stores.  Sugary treats however, only benefits us and gives us the illusion that treating is the strongest way to gain trust or bond with our pet.

Sugary goodies not only are high in sugar (Who knew?) but they are also very unhealthy in a sense of what real ingredients are used and the process of how they are made.  Hamsters are omnivorous and opportunistic carnivores; in the wild they would get their natural necessities of things like sugar from foods like corn, berries and other grains.  Too much sugar causes obesity, diabetes and kidney damage (Even failure).  Organic dairy products like plain yogurt and milk can be given in moderation and are beneficial because they provide a lot of healthy and naturally occurring bacteria, calcium and enzymes.

Yogurt Drops and other retail treats, no matter how “natural” and “sugar free” the bag or box says, are very unhealthy!  It’s usually assumed that because these treats are small they can be given in abundance a few times a day; the reality is, if you insist on offering these treats they should only be given once or twice a week!  Would you feed your pet McDonalds or In&Out every single day?  Would you offer them an ice cream cone multiple times an hour?  This is the equivalent of feeding processed retail treats.

So what if it says it’s 100% Fruit, 100% Sugar Free or 100% Natural?  Don’t fall for this “specific” and “manipulative” phrasing – Hamsters cannot have a lot of sugar in their diet at all and all fruits (And corn too) are high in exactly that in their most natural state;  feeding fruit and corn have to be in moderation along with the treats all the same.

Better alternatives to treating your Hamster would be with low sugar organic foods and if they are organic and high in sugar like strawberries, bananas and corn you can feed them in moderation once or twice a week.

These treats sold in stores are not fatal, but they have the potential to be if you overdo it, causing liver damage, liver failure and diabetes.

Now you may be asking, “Well if I can’t give my Hamster a variety of treats where is my Hamster going to get all of their nutrients?”  Please refer to my article here about the appropriate and necessary Hamster diet; there I explain the importance of balancing their diets so that they get all of the nutrition they need.  If you want, you can supplement these diets (Most staple and balanced diets do not need supplementation but every Hamster is different, like Humans, and some need a bit more “umf” in their food plan then others and some even need less!) with nutritional powders, mineral chews, a little extra organic foods that are specifically mineral rich and chewable calcium blocks.

Like all animals (Including Humans) when our body is lacking a beneficiary nutrient or vitamin in our body we unconsciously crave it and seek it out in the foods we familiarize ourselves with drinking and eating.

Remember, everything needs to be in moderation – anything can be bad if overdone (Even healthy food).  A good thing to remember specifically with Hamsters is that they need calcium, protein and fiber the most but too much of any of these three can not only be dangerous but fatal.

Calcium - All animals need this- especially Rodents – they require it for their delicate bones and the #1 most important part of their body, their ever growing teeth!  99% of the body’s calcium supply is stored in the bones and teeth where it supports their structure and function. Bone itself undergoes continuous remodeling, with constant resorption and deposition of calcium into new bone. The balance between bone resorption and deposition changes with age, which is why sometimes young pups and old Hamsters need a lot of it.

How to supplement it - A really easy, stimulating and varitype source of Calcium is a Cuttlefish Bone, which is commonly used in habitats homing Birds, Chinchillas and Hamsters.  Other sources include but are not limited to organic yogurt, milk, cheese, apples and dark green leafy vegetables like broccoli, spinach and celery.

The cause of too much - Too much Calcium can cause extensive Kidney damage/failure. An over abundance of Calcium in your body solidifies in your urine and in the Kidney along the walls and Urethra, creating Kidney Stones. Kidney Stones are excruciating and the pain is usually compared to that of giving child birth. For a Hamster, it could be extremely painful and potentially fatal.

Protein - Proteins help with food digestion and muscle movement. Through ligaments, hair/fur and nails, they give structure. They also help with sight, as the lens of the eye is made of pure protein.  Helping the body carry oxygen to all other cells by producing hemoglobin is another role. Proteins also help the body ward off infection and disease by making antibodies.

How to supplement it - Although protein is meat, it can also be found in other foods such as eggs, beans and nuts.  You can also provide protein with crickets, mealworms and dairy products like cheese and milk.

The cause of too much - Too much protein and not enough carbohydrates can cause ketones to collect in the blood (ketosis). Even people on high protein diets are told by being in constant ketosis they only lose weight because this forces the body to burn fat for energy. However, ketosis is dangerous because it can cause mild dehydration by placing a burden on the kidneys and the liver having the potential to cause failure.  An imbalance of extreme amounts of protein and not enough carbohydrates usually leads to less fiber, resulting in constipation. This can lead to hemorrhoids, polyps and even colon cancer. Other conditions include heart disease, diabetes and obesity.

Fiber - The term fiber refers to carbohydrates that cannot be digested. Fiber is found in the plants we eat for food – fruits, vegetables, grains, and legumes.  A diet that includes foods that are rich in fiber can help lower blood cholesterol and prevent diabetes and heart disease. When carbohydrates are combined with fiber, it slows the absorption of sugar and regulates insulin response.  Fiber itself has no calories, and adequate amounts of fiber help move food through the digestive system, promoting healthy bowel function and protecting against constipation.

How to supplement it - Fiber can be obtained by eating various fruits and vegetables like apples, bananas, strawberries, blueberries, cooked broccoli, cooked carrots, cooked cauliflower, corn, spinach, pasta and sweet potato or squashes.  Whole-grain breads and plain cereals are also great sources of fiber to feed your Hamster.

The cause of too much - Despite the benefits of fiber, too much fiber intake can have its own set of side effects which include painful and uncomfortable bloating, constipation, diarrhea and dehydration, abdominal pain and weight gain.  Make sure to supply fresh water at all times since hydration is what balances fiber in the body.  Too much fiber can also cause unhealthy weight loss; fiber makes the travel of food through the digestive track remarkably faster and too much of this causes the feeling of being “full”.  This essentially fools the body into thinking all of the necessary nutrients have been consumed.  Iron and calcium will also have a harder time being absorbed by the body if too much fiber is in the diet.  The body will go with the flow unfortunately and too much fiber tricks it into turning essential nutrients into waste, it may not seem dangerous but it certainly has the potential to be; malnourishment can very well be a gateway into other health problems.

A good way to monitor whether or not your Hamster is receiving all of the nutrients and vitamins it needs is by feeding it a balanced diet, watching their behavior/activity and checking their teeth.  If a Hamster is lacking any minerals or vitamins in their body their teeth usually turn white, which is bad! By providing mineral chews like Hamsteroids or Cuttlefish bone they can get that little extra that will help balance their bodies and their diets.

Having a good weight, clean and healthy eyes, ears, nose, skin, normal/healthy stool and yellow teeth are significant indicators of health and that everything on the inside is working smoothly.  A suggested meal plan should be put into place and efficiently exercised so that you can monitor their overall health!

Remember, everything is best in moderation and the best way to make sure your hamster is receiving all of the important stuff for their insides is by watching what they eat, how frequently they eat it and drink water and by watching their overall behavior.  These are the tools that will greatly be of service in raising a happy and healthy Hamster!

http://zoneperfect.com/nutrition/faq/nutrition-101

http://www.hamsterific.com/hamsteruniversity/foodlist.html

Feeding abandoned Hamster Pups

When you are faced with a surprise litter of pups sometimes it is best to take matters into your own hands to ensure the safety and health of the litter in question.

In order to completely care for newborn pups that cannot be taken cared of by Mom due to sudden death or abandonment you will need the following:

For Living:

• 20 Gallon Long Aquarium
• Small ceramic bowl
• Heating Pad
• Recyclable bedding
• A roll of Toilet paper
• General Food Dish
• General hanging Water bottle
• Den/House
• Two large wheels
• Tubes
• Toys

For Feeding:

• Blender
• 1 Eye Dropper or small Syringe
• Thin tubing meant for syringe feeding
• Bene-Bac Powder
• KMR Powder
• Oxbow Critical Care powder
• Yogurt/Apple Sauce/Beach Nut Milk
• Water

One misconception about feeding newborn Hamsters is that you can simply offer them KMR alone and that it is completely sufficient when in reality there is so much more they should be offered in order to be completely healthy and balanced.

There are necissary “friendly” bacterias that must be added along with nutrional additives that help make the transition easier to formula rather then what is expected – Mother’s milk.  The two items you should be adding are Bene-Bac and Oxbow’s Critical care Powder for Canines, Felines, Exotic Animals and Wildlife.

These “friendly” bacteria prepare the Immune System and the Digestive Tract (and much more)!  Usually Mother’s “friendly” bacteria are given to the Pups through her Milk but in these situations most litters do not get the chance to receive any.

Recipe for newborn Pups aging from day 1 – 10 (About one sitting’s worth)

• 1/4 TBS KMR
•  1/4 TS Bene-Bac
•  1/4 TS Critical Care
• Blend

Recipe for weaning Pups aging from day 10-20 (About 4 day’s worth)

• 1 1/3 Cup BHF
• 1/3 Cup Water
•  1/4 TBS Yogurt/Apple Sauce/Beach Nut Milk
•  1/4 TBS KMR
•  1/4 TS Bene-Bac
•  1/4 TS Critical Care
• Blend

Artificial formula tastes nothing like Mother’s milk and some Pups can prove to be quite picky or difficult to feed in these extremely fragile stages of life.  Because of this some Pups will even have to be tube fed during the first few days of their lives.

It is actually best for Pups to be tube fed if they are 1-4 days old or until they become comfortable with the syringe or eye dropper to keep them from gagging, choking or drowning.  However, if you have never tube fed an animal before (Most people have never done this anyway) then it is best to try to feed them with the syringe or eye dropper as best you can – as tubing them incorrectly is extremely easy to do which can cause immediate death.

If they choke or breathe in the formula (which can happen due to drinking too fast or too much) milk will drip from the nose and they will cough or sneeze.  The best way to alleviate this is by gently and firmly holding them and waving their bodies up and down so that gravity and pressure will force the milk out of their nose.   Once they are done coughing or sneezing and are breathing normally, you can continue feeding them again.

After you have finished feeding them, you must get a lightly dampened piece of tissue and gently stimulate their urethra until they have completely emptied their bladders and bowels.  (It is best to do this over a trash can.)  Once you can tell they are able to do this on their own or whenever their eyes have opened, you no longer need to do this.

Formula must be made every sitting and Weaning Formula should be made  in bulk to last a couple of days and be kept sealed in the refrigerator.  Make sure to warm both before feeding for about 8-10 seconds in the microwave.  Always check to see how warm it is, and if it is to hot for you to keep your finger in for more then 60 seconds then it is too hot to feed with.

Always mix the Formula and Weaning Formula until you feel it is evenly mixed and always change the Weaning Formula every day.

As they begin to open their eyes, they start to experiment on solid foods, however they still need Mother’s milk as well!  This is why you also supply a “Weaning Formula” in their general food dish a long with a normal and balanced Hamster Diet.

As they age, use your judgement to cut down the weaning formula and make up for it in solid foods like fruits and vegetables and other natural/organic treats. (Yogurt, Apple Sauce, boiled Chicken and Rice and various Organic Baby Foods.)

**NOTICE:  Do NOT attempt to do any of the following until you are absolutely CERTAIN the Mother will not take the Pups back (If she is alive that is) and after you have tried to find a surrogate Mother!**

http://www.cedarrun.org/

http://www.hamsterific.com/orphans.cfm

http://www.jefferspet.com/bene-bac-for-pets/p/4157/

http://www.drugs.com/vet/zoologic-bene-bac-powder.html

http://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/vets/products/critical_care

Bowl of Happy

The Hibernating Hamster

It is widely believed that Hamsters go into Hibernation but the real truth is that they certainly do not. If Hamsters went into Hibernation then it would be a Seasonal and normal occurring thing – not abnormal or worrisome. Hamsters have never hibernated and never will – it is simply not possible.  What really happens to them is something known as Shock.

Hamster’s bodies go into shock when there is a dramatic change in temperature which can give the illusion of dying or being dead. Due to a decreased heart rate and shallow breathing this state of shock has been confused for Hibernation. Hamsters can go into shock from being dropped as well or any other body change that their Brain sees as a threat.

Hibernation is a time when animals ‘sleep’ through cold weather.  This sleep is not like human sleep where loud noises can wake you up.  With true hibernation, the animal can be moved around or touched and not know it.  With normal sleep, the animal must move a little, have an active brain and should wake up very quickly to a sudden change.

With true hibernation, the animal appears dead.  There is no movement and it takes a long time for it to wake up enough to even walk around.  This is why people confuse shock with Hibernating.

Usually animals in the wild Hibernate during extreme weather conditions because food is scarce and life is dangerous. However, Hamsters are desert animals and their bodies are just not made for extreme hibernation like Bears and other hibernating mammals.

Even if an animal is built to survive a harsh winter it’s not healthy for it to be exposed to the outside all day in the freezing cold.  Hamsters aren’t equipped with real thick winter coats to do so in the first place.  Hibernating animal’s bodies are already made to handle such weathers, fasts and slumbers – Hamster’s bodies are not.

During the fall, hibernating animals eat more food than usual.  Their bodies will live off their body fat as they ‘sleep’ through winter.  The animal will use up the body fat it stores and not lose any muscle.  This causes the animal to come out of hibernation thinner, but still as strong as it was in the fall.

The animals get their winter nests, dens and burrows ready.  Different kinds of animals hibernate in different kinds of safe spots.  When they go into hibernation and their bodies slow down, enemies can get them easier.  They try to pick the safest place to spend the winter away from these enemies.

Hibernation is the way that animals adapt to the climate and land around them.  Animals must be able to live through extreme cold…or die.  Animals hibernate—or deep sleep—to escape that cold.  They also do this because it is really hard to find food during the winter.

http://library.thinkquest.org/TQ0312800/hibernate.htm

Hibernating mammals are built to sleep periodically without food or water without being harmed because of their fatty storage and body make-up, Hamsters will certainly die if you allow them to stay in this state of shock from starvation and dehydration.

If you have found that your Hamster is in this state of shock this is the best way to start recovery:

• Slowly warm their bodies back to an acceptable body temperature by holding them in your hand and rubbing their bodies to stimulate their muscles.
• In their cage you can put a heating pad or water bottle filled with hot water (Wrapped in paper towels to prevent direct contact) to keep their environment warm.
• Keep the Hamster hydrated and offer them vegetables like Cucumber or Romaine Lettuce if they are not drinking from the bottle well.  Feeding them some low sugar baby food is a great way to provide nutrients if they are not eating well.
• Keep their cage in a quiet room with low lighting that does not involve a lot of trafficking by people or larger animals.  Make sure that the cage is not in direct sunlight or near a draft.  The room must be somewhere the temperature is usually consistent.
• Keep an eye on them and check on their activity periodically until they seem back to normal.  After they have completely waken up you can offer them hardier foods like Seed Mix or Pellets.
• *IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT FEED THEM ANYTHING ELSE DURING THIS TIME UNLESS IT IS ORGANIC AND EASILY DIGESTIBLE LIKE FRUIT, VEGETABLES OR ORGANIC YOGURT.
• *Shivering, shaking and a loss of balance or weakness is normal as the Hamster “reawakens” and regains consciousness.

It is not natural for a Hamster to be in this state of shock and should be avoided from happening.  They aren’t dead but are in a “Deeply Sleeping” state that can be fatal if they are not re-woken by slowly reintroducing heat to their shocked system.  “Hibernation” is just a word used to describe a Hamster when it has gone into shock due to a dramatic and sudden drop of temperature.

If your Hamster is excessively collecting food and becoming less active then they are just doing what normal Hamsters do.  Gradually going in cycles of activity and sudden laxness is nothing to worry about. Hamsters are like people and if your Hamster is sucking up all of the food like a vacuum they are just keeping their hoard nice and big (Something Hamsters are supposed to do). Don’t worry! If your Hamster ever goes into shock you would know immediately, they do not “prepare” to go in shock by gathering and nesting as going into shock is a serious medical condition and not a Hamster behavior.

Food for Hamsters

Not many people realize it but the diet of a Hamster is extremely important; it should be varied and balanced.  It is our job as a Hamster owner to do research and figure out what kind of balanced diet that needs to be!

With so many articles and threads in forums there has been so much confusion on what should and should not be fed to a Hamster every day.  For one thing, Dog food and Cat food should never be fed every day in any quantity.  All of this understanding comes from reading labels, doing research other then forums and articles and learning about the Species you are caring for!

Rodentia is an order of mammals also known as rodents, characterised by two continuously growing incisors in the upper and lower jaws which must be kept short by gnawing.

Hamsters are no exception and are known as rodents belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae.  The subfamily contains about 25 species around the world, and yet only 5 have been successfully domesticated!  We know them today as the Syrian Hamster, the Chinese Dwarf Hamster, the Roborovski Dwarf Hamster, the Russian Djungarian Dwarf Hamster and the Russian Campbell’s Dwarf Hamster.

While some Rodents are omnivorous opportunistic scavengers they generally eat an assortment of grains, seeds, berries insects and vegetables like corn.  They require fibrous foods with enriched proteins like grains, insects and sometimes lean meat.  Because they need protein (Like most animals) there is a common misconception that they can be fed any kind of meat and food meant for other species like Canines or Felines simply because they provide that protein.  What many people do not know, is that Rodents should not have that much protein in their diet.  Too much protein has been proven to cause an extent of liver damage in Hamsters and because of this protein should only be an additive in moderation to their diet and not so much the entirety.

A good food for a Hamster should consist of a healthy Seed Mix, Lab Blocks and a variation of live foods, fruits and vegetables.  Lab Blocks are  recommended along with their seed mix only because Hamsters (like many other animals) can be picky eaters and only eat the fancier parts of the seed mix, leaving the most important parts behind that provide the minerals and vitamins they need.  Lab Blocks are made to be a complete diet in every single block including the enrichment the Hamster’s body requires in order to be completely healthy.  They are also sometimes preferred by Hamsters over the ones provided in the seed mix itself.  The reason why it is recommended to have both the Seeds and the Lab Blocks, is simply because Hamsters (Like Humans) become bored with food and will sometimes turn their backs to a diet that only consists of Lab Blocks.  Seeds and grains make the diet interesting and is much more natural.

If you’re going to feed your pet healthy food, atleast let it be something they particularly enjoy eating.  If they are extremely picky to the point where they reject all quality diets then you need to compromise in a healthy way.  None of my hamsters like Mazuri, so I grind it up and powder it all in their seed mix, fruits, veggies and protien foods. I simply measure the appropriate amount of Mazuri per bowl and do it that way.   They eat it every time without even knowing it.   If your pet hates the food then look for something else of the same quality to compromise.  This doesn’t mean feed them whatever you want though!

Another thing you can do is provide more minerals and vitamins by putting additives into their diet, like mineral/vitamin powders or drops in their water to provide more Vitamin C and Calcium.

Some Hamsters have to follow specific diets because of sensitive tummies or Diabetes.  Hamsters who have Diabetes should have a diet with less sugars then what other Hamsters usually have.  This means picking out some seeds and corn before refilling every bowl!  Hamsters are hoarders and usually hide most of the food you give them and only eat when they are hungry.  This doesn’t mean they don’t get fat, as Linda Price points out, because they certainly can due to poor diets or poor food choices on the Owner’s behalf.

Foods like Millet Sprays are safe to feed specifically Diabetic Hamsters in moderation and can help add variety back into their diets after a lot of variety has been crossed out due to their high sugar content.

Dog biscuits can be offered to keep their teeth down also!

This is because they are plain and have no real additives, however it should not be given every day as part of their staple diet.  Lab Blocks also help keep teeth down, so if you are providing the Lab Blocks as you should, biscuits are not necessary.

To view a full list of what specific foods you can offer your Hamsters (Other then Seed Mixes and Lab Blocks) you can click here to visit Hamsterific’s accurate Master List.

Great Hamster Seed Mixes

• Carefresh Complete
• Hazel Hamster (Harry Hamster)

Great Hamster Lab Blocks/Pellets

• Mazuri
• Oxbow

Creole the Earless Hamster

The other day I went to Pet’smart in Moorestown, NJ and found myself looking at the new Hamster arrivals as part of my animal shopping routine.  What I wasn’t expecting to find was an earless Hamster!

He was in a display tank with another male that looked a bit younger but not by much.  They where both Red Eyed Argente Russian Campbell’s Dwarf Hamsters and where displayed as “Fancy Russian Dwarf” Hamsters for 15 dollars.

15 dollars for what!?  A poorly bred and handicapped Hamster?  I became  a little upset and brought this to an employee’s atention.  He said, “Oh I didn’t even notice that one!  Yeah I’m sorry he isn’t for sale – we can’t sell imperfect animals.  We get these all of the time…sometimes they don’t even have limbs!” and then proceeded to take the Hamster out to put it in a box to be taken to the back.

I intervened and asked if I could observe him out of curiosity.  He allowed me to go into the area behind the cages and examine him.  He had clear eyes and his ear canals where pristine – no lumps on his body that I could feel and he was alert, aware and active.

I instantly fell in love with him!  He was incredibly docile to my surprise and instantly allowed me to handle him.  I am suspicious that he is deaf, as deaf and or blind animals are easier to tame then others because they do not startle as easy.

I also suspect that he was returned as he is much fatter, and seems older then the youngling that was in the cage with him – who was very skittish, which is normal for young Hamsters who have not been pruchased or adopted yet.

I convinced the Manager on duty to let me take him, I feared his “imperfection” would never find him a home, especially knowing they where never going to sell him themselves.

My annoyance is with the Pet’smart Company, not so much with the actual Store in Moorestown.  As soon as I googled earless Hamster, Pet’smart kept popping up and apparently it’s common for Pet’smart to receive “imperfect” stock. So they send them back to be destroyed!

I mean maybe the company doesn’t realize it happens in a much larger scale because defects can happen in any line at any given time due to unknown hidden genes that have been absent for so may generations!

I guess technically there is no way of avoiding that probability unless you legit know where the original stock is coming from, how they where produced and everything that could possibly be known about their genetic history – which is impossible to some point obviously.

This could just be an eye opener to how mass breeding can reveal such hidden horrors or just a realization of how uncaring mass breeding facilities really are with their stock.  To just have them sent away though, that is beyond me.  How do you just end the life of somebody or something because of a physical deformity that isn’t necessarily a danger to their lives?

Are Pet Shops now becoming elitist? If that’s the case then maybe they should only support Breeding companies that make quality stock to avoid this horrible situation? Amirite?

Personally I am in love with this little guy and I would have chosen him over any other “perfect” hamster any day anyway!

I never heard of an earless gene defect before, I have heard of eyeless and missing limbs but not this!  As a Hamster Fancier I couldn’t help but wonder…

• What causes an earless Hamster to be created?
• Does this defect affect their lives?
• Does this mean he could possibly be deaf or is this just a physical mutation?
• Is this a recessive incident or could his ears onced existed and either shriveled away or have been mangled off by a sibling or parent?

I am going to be doing some research for the next few days in my free time to find these answers!

In the meantime take a look at his photos here in my Dwarfs’ Album on my Flickr.  Just look at that face <3

Píyo & Tönka

There has been companion additions to the Lacrima Family! Meet Píyo & Tönka! They have been causing quite a stir as they where both sexed incorrectly and their species where mixed matched by the people at my local Petco. “They came this way” says the Associate – What an excuse.

I really wish Pet Stores would take the time to learn about their Stock! I had an argument with a Manager in my local Pet’smart because she refused to let me call the “Teddy Bear Hamster” I wanted a Syrian! If you are going to be a representative of someone who knows about animals and their needs you need to do your research. It’s your job to educate the uneducated, not be the Blind leading the Blind!

Her Associates tried selling me Cedar and Pine bedding, cotton nest material and Parrot stands for chew sticks made of all kinds of wood that would kill a Hamster if ingested! I was infuriated at both Establishments and highly disappointed. Get your acts together, it’s no wonder so many people’s pets die so quickly when they purchase them from a Pet Store – Nobody was able to tell them how to properly take care of the animal in the first place!  Some Pet Stores are really pleasant to go to but unfortunately the ones here in Cherry Hill are extremely ignorant and have no idea what the proper Species of Small Animals, Reptiles, Amphibians, Fish even really are or their natural environments to keep them happy, healthy and safe.

Anyway, Píyo was meant to be a male Campbell and is actually a female while Tönka was meant to be a male Campbell and is actually a Hybrid. Oy vey – do you know what this means? There may be an accidental Litter on the way.

I do not condone Cross Breeding, period. The fact of the matter is that this was an accident, I should have paid more attention knowing how Pet Stores are run with their Staff. However- Píyo was in a tank of Males before I even got her so it was an unavoidable situation. Things happen for a reason!  I cannot wait to see how these pups will look and how they will grow, what colors they will be and how they must be classified.

It has come to my attention that Tönka may be a Campbell’s/Winter White Hybrid due to his unusual coloration (Which is not natural in the Djungarian Species) so I am trying to learn everything I can about what truly and scientifically dictates these Species apart if ever a Hybrid-looking animal where to be found- which is my predicament! I can’t wait to do more research and learn new things!

When life gives you lemons make lemonade and what’s done is done, all I can do now is learn from this experience, even if it was an accient!

To see more of Píyo & Tönka please visit their Flickr Album!

Horrrraaaaaay!

The runt that I affectionately called ‘Pawsky‘ was adopted on Mar. 09, 2011.  He was picked up by his wonderful new owner, Ninithedreamer who I met on Flickr.  She drove about 2 hours South of her home just to pick up this precious baby <3  Meet Ori, the little Runt that could steal your heart with one look at his cute and tiny face!  Ori is a Male Long Haired Yellow Umbrous Syrian Hamster. He was the smallest of the litter of 10 and was given special attention by Mom and myself.  He may have been behind when he started but now he has really been taking off with a lovely growth spurt!  Good luck to you, Ori and I hope you enjoy your new home with your lovely new Mommy!

You can view his photos here where they are updated almost every other day!

Ready for new homes

I have finally finished this Blogger and am extremely exited to share it with everyone. Düva Minka and Brüno‘s Litter is now ready to move on!  There are 10 gorgeous Pups waiting for their new forever homes – 6 Girls and 4 Boys!  Individual Photos will be coming soon – until then, look in the Litters Page or my Flickr to see some of them together.

There are Umbrous Goldens (Aka: Dark Goldens) and Umbrous Yellows – gorgeous little babies.